I’ve got to be honest I only bought this pate because it was reduced from £2.99 to £2.09. It’s not the greatest bargain that anyone ever got but in Waitrose terms a 90p reduction isn’t that bad as they’re pretty stingy on how much they will knock off. I reckon if I’d been in Tesco and they had some £2.99 pate that was going to be out of date in a matter of hours I’d get it at least half price, but Tesco is shit and Waitrose is great so I mustn’t grumble.
I’m not one of those people who can get excited about pate, it sits alongside terrines and rillettes in a category in my brain called “cheap lunch menu starters”. They’re the kind of dishes that a restaurant can knock up in big portions relatively cheaply. They get stuck in the fridge ready to whack out as an option next to soup and a goats cheese salad on a three courses for £16.50 menu. I admit that that doesn’t necessarily make them bad, but in my mind it does make them boring.
And so it was with my 90p discount and my lack of enthusiasm for pate that I got to business and toasted a couple of slices of St John Bakery sourdough and slathered on the pate. The packaging informed me that “Smoking in Lapsang Souchong gives this pate a boost in flavour that really brings it alive. The perfect dip or spread for hors d’oeuvres.” and do you know that packaging was pretty accurate. I’m loathe to agree that anything is perfect so I won’t go as far as that, but it was delicious. It was creamy from the cream cheese, you got a hint of the smoky Lapsang Souchong but it wasn’t overwhelming, the herbs were fragrant, there was a touch of acidity from the lemon juice and even though salmon isn’t the most flavoursome fish going there was plenty of it and I could taste it alongside all the other elements. The pate hadn’t been blitzed to a paste so there was a great texture with small pieces of salmon left in tact – delicious!
It can be a bumpy journey with Heston products, they’re largely good sometimes excellent and occasionally disasterous but with his salmon pate I think he’s back on form and as boring dishes go, this is one of the best.
Heston from Waitrose Salmon Pate £2.99 per pot (unless you get a 90p discount)
nb Sorry about the lack of accent on the word “pate” but even at the tender age of 35 I’ve still not figured out how to do it!