Last time I had a Paul Rankin product I got very confused. This was more my fault than Paul’s, largely due to me being a douche and and failing to recognise the difference between soda bread and sourdough.
I know from looking at the website of Paul’s restaurant Cayenne that he is a pretty versatile chef. However if your only impression of Paul came from his supermarket range you’d be forgiven for thinking he only made bread products. Not anymore! New to the supermarket shelf is Paul Rankin sausages.
Apparently the sausages are gluten free, I’ll be honest I wasn’t sure what effect that would have on a sausage. Usually when a product claims it is free of something it ususally means it will taste worse than it would have done if left in, but I tried not to pre-judge.
I decided to have the sausages with onion marmalade, largely because I love onion marmalade, but also because if the sausages tasted gross I had something to hide the taste with. The instructions for oven baking the sausages said “cook in a preheated oven 200C/400F Gas Mark 6 for 30-35 mins”. I appreciated this, normally it says 20-25 mins, they are never cooked and end up grey and slimey. After 35 mins Paul Rankin’s sausages were still grey and slimey, but they did have some golden edges so it wasn’t all bad.
The sausages came out fat and on the cusp of bursting, but they had held their shape admirably. I cut off some sausage and it tasted just like a reformed meat greasy spoon sausage – but a little less shiny. The meat was not really recognisable as meat despite it’s 85% meat content. It had been so minced up and packed together that it was like firm sponge or chewing a flip flop. Maybe this is what happens to sausages when you remove the gluten, thus proving my theory, or maybe they were just cheap sausages with a celebrity endorsement, I really couldn’t say.
On this tasting I’d say Paul would be better off sticking to confusing bread – at least that tastes nice.
Paul Rankin Outdoor Bred Pork Sausages £2.79 for 6 from Waitrose.