Many years ago culinary wizard Heston Blumenthal taught us that the secret to a perfect burger was to ensure that all the strands of minced beef face the same direction. No more were we to take our mince and manipulate it into a patty by any means, the new world order involves lining up your mince strands, packing them into a meaty log before refrigerating and cutting off the perfect burger. Heston also conducts research into the perfect bun and quite rightly he settles on a brioche bun as the most appropriate home for the patty.
These days with Heston’s range in Waitrose he sells both burgers and brioche buns. His burgers are true to his research and use three different cuts of meat and the strand alignment technique. They cost £4.99 for two so I didn’t buy them instead heading to my great local butcher Flock and Herd where a burger costs £1.50 and taste great whatever way the beef strands sit. I did however invest in Heston’s brioche buns.
Heston says “Complement your burger with a great bun. When toasted it is the ultimate combination of rich, soft and buttery, to accompany a juicy meaty burger.” so not wanting to shy away from an ultimate combination I cooked the burger and then added the brioche buns to the griddle in order to get satisfying grill lines across the surface of the bread.
When I took the buns out of the packet they were the softest pillows of bouncy bread you ever did feel. If it wouldn’t be too weird and a big waste of food they’d be the perfect replacement for a comfort blanket. I took my lightly griddled buns, plonked on the burger and took a bite.
The buns were very sweet, light and buttery and despite their soft and delicate texture they held the burger without any trouble. The downfall of many a good burger is a bun that disintegrates under the might of its filling, leaving the eater covered in beef juice, mustard and tomato pulp. Not so with Heston’s buns – partly because I didn’t have any tomato in the burger but largely because the structure of the bread was so good.
I can’t think of a better burger bun than Heston’s brioche version, they win through on all counts. Some people may find them overly sweet but I was quite happy.
Heston from Waitrose Brioche Burger Buns £1.39 for two buns